JAPUTA (Ray's Bream) Roasted

Whole roast Japuta - (Palometa Negra) Ray's Bream

Ingredients

1 whole Japuta (scaled if you can)

Peel of half a preserved lemon (or thinly pared peel of a fresh lemon)

1 fresh lemon

1 teaspoon dried tarragon or a sprig of fresh

1 clove of garlic

Method

The fishmonger and I tried to scale it as best we could but if roasting the skin forms its own "tin foil" covering.

Make deep diagonal slashes on either side of the fish.  Season the fish inside and out with salt and pepper and rub skin with tarragon forcing some into each slit.  Put the remaining tarragon in the belly of the fish and insert a thin sliver of lemon peel into each slit (if you have preserved lemons, use the peel of these but reduce the amount of salt seasoning).  Put the remaining lemon peel in the belly of the fish with a clove of garlic

Preheat the oven to 200C (180C fan oven). Lightly oil a roasting dish with olive oil and lay the fish in. Drizzle with olive oil and the juice of half a lemon.  Cover with foil and roast for 15 minutes.

Remove the foil (add a little more oil and/or lemon juice if the fish is drying out) and baste with the juices in the dish.  Return to oven and continue cooking uncovered for 10-15 minutes until the skin is crispy and the flesh firm and white.

Remove from oven. Remove the top layer of skin. 

1. Carefully lift the fish onto a serving plate and pour over the juices from the tin and any remaining lemon juice.

1. To serve, cut down the middle of the fish from head to tail to the backbone, then release the fillets from the bones on either side of the backbone. Slide a fish slice under the fillets and lift off, then pull the bone from the bottom fillets; divide and serve.

John Austin

Santa Pola, August 2016

JAPUTA - Poached whole on the bone

JAPUTA (Palometa negra) RAY's BREAM

Ingredients

One whole Ray's bream, cleaned 
Sprig of fresh thyme
Two cloves of garlic
2 shallots or one small onion chopped
2 celery stalks, chopped
1 glass white wine and equal quantity of water
Half teaspoon fennel seeds
Lemon peel
Splash of Anis Secco (Pastis/Ricard/Pernod)

Method

After a determined effort to descale this fish, weighing just over 1kg, I seasoned the fish, inside and out with salt and freshly ground pepper and stuffed the belly with .

a sprig of fresh thyme and garlic and put to one side. 

Use a large saute pan with a lid. Gently fry the chopped onion in just enough olive oil to soften, add the chopped celery and fennel seeds and continue frying gently for a few minutes add the wine and water and simmer gently for a few minutes.

Make deep slashes on either side of the fish and insert slivers of lemon peel into the slashes. I used preserved lemons . : Place the whole fish in the poaching liquid, add a splash of Anis if you like the flavour, put on the lid and poach gently for 30 minutes.

John Austin
Santa Pola, Spain 

August 2015

RAY'S BREAM - JAPUTA

Palometa negra

I first came across this fish in Carrefour in Elche, looking as if made of steel. It had a bream like appearance but I had no idea what it was and had to consult various books to find out.

I learned that its English name is Ray's bream (although it is not a member of the sea bream family) and is named after the 17th century English naturalist John Ray, but I have never seen it in England. I had also seen a fish in Spain called Palometa blanca which is Spanish for Pompano (palomino or palomète in French).

In Europe, Palometa blanca or pompano is sometimes called Asian or Mediterrranean pomfret.  I haven’t tried it but I have read that the Mediterranean variety are not worth eating so I will probably not bother. To add to confusion, Ray's bream, Palometa negra,  is known as pomfret in N America.

In some parts of Spain, Palometa negra may be known by its Catalan name, Castanyola and similarly castagna in Italy and castagnole In France, where it is sometimes called brème, but in south eastern Spain it is usually sold as Japuta.  Once seen you cannot fail to recognise its distinctive steel-like appearance. 

In August 2015 they had some in Eroski in Santa Pola on offer at 4.95€ per kilo and as my son, Damien and family were staying with me I decided to give it a try.  My Spanish is none too good and I thought the fishmonger was asking if I wanted it skinned.  I said no, just cleaned, which normally includes scaling, so I was surprised when I got home to find that it had not been scaled.  A subsequent effort by Damien and myself, both with scaling tools and the chef's knife proved difficult and only partially successful.  The next time I bought it, in the summer of 2016, I specifically asked for it to be scaled - it was a Herculean task and not very well accomplished and required further effort on my part when I got it into the kitchen.  The scales are as tough as steel and are all strongly linked.

I didn't know anyone who had tried Ray's bream so I sought some advice on Facebook.  I am grateful to Steve Whitelegg for his reply

Steve Whitelegg May 26 at 10:38pm The post by 'Nepptune', about halfway down this fishing site thread, might be helpful even if you are not intending to cook it on a barbecue http://www.fishing.net.nz/forum/rays-bream_topic37542.html Nepptune confirmed the impenetrable nature of the steely scales Nepptune  Gold Joined: 29 Nov 2007 Location: South Africa Status: Offline Points: 637 We get a ton of those out here off Cape Town too, in the canyons and YFT grounds.... big commercial market for them and marketed as "Angelfish" in Fishmarkets and Restaurants.... Damn good eating.... skin is tough as nails, but acts almost like tin foil on the BBQ.... just lay a fillet skin down on the Barbie, spices and such on the top, and cook with the cover over the BBQ..... skin keeps the whole bunch together, and peels off easy once done...

Alan  Davidson in Tio Pepe says "if you see it on the menu, opt for it".( The Tio Pepe Guide to the SEAFOOD of SPAIN and PORTUGAL Alan Davidson 2002 www.santanabooks.com ISBN 84-89954-21-6

Recipe books suggest poaching or roasting whole or frying fillets.  I have cooked it whole on two occasions poaching (2015) and roasting (2016) and have published the two methods on this blog.

John Austin
August 2016