NOVEMBER ON THE ALLOTMENT
I’m finding it increasingly difficult to get motivated to go to the allotment on cold autumn or winter days but, having consumed the
last of this year’s frozen broad beans and, as we are approaching the sowing
season for 2016, a visit is a must. This year I had a reasonable crop of broad beans and they are one of the few vegetables that freeze successfully.
Fortunately we had a dry sunny day on Tuesday and I was happy to spend an hour tidying and preparing the ground.
Broad beans harvested June 2015 |
Fortunately we had a dry sunny day on Tuesday and I was happy to spend an hour tidying and preparing the ground.
cavolo nero |
Perpetual spinach and Swiss chard |
and lift the first of the Jerusalem artichokes.
And surprise, surprise the raspberries were still fruiting! (although very much past their best).
My problem with the raspberries is that they were inherited
and are a mixture of summer and autumn fruiting varieties and in our changeable
climate it’s difficult to tell them apart and this could be a problem when it comes to pruning. I have been advised that the old
canes on autumn varieties need to be removed and new ones should emerge next
year, whereas with summer fruiting varieties the fruits should appear on the
canes that have already grown this year.
I will see if I can determine which is which and report back on my
success, or lack of it, next year.
My priority was to clear one of the raised beds in
preparation for sowing some broad beans later this month. I will sow two double rows - eight inches apart with two feet between
the double rows, one of Aqualdulce and one of Sutton’s dwarf variety. I find these varieties do well for autumn sowing. I will sow more, possibly other varieties, from
February/March onwards. The November
sowings will crop only a week or two ahead of the Feb/March sowings but (hopefully)
might be early enough to avoid the inevitable blackfly infestation! I will also feel good that something is
actually growing over winter.
I also turned my thoughts to runner beans which will
probably not be sown or planted out until May but it is advisable to prepare
the ground. Runner beans need a lot of
moisture and nutritious soil. I usually
dig two trenches about 1 foot deep and 18 inches wide and 2 -3 feet apart – this
is where the beans will be sown. I pile
the soil dug out on each side of the trenches.
Having dug the trench, I lightly fork the bottom and then
fill with organic matter – in my case kitchen waste, peelings etc and any other
compostable material which will aid water retention, including torn up
newspapers mixed in with the kitchen waste. I also have a 3 tier wormery and
will add some of the partially rotted compost from this and some of the “worm Juice”,
liquid manure that collects at the bottom, and this will aid the composting
process.
First trench dug 10 November 2015 |
I then leave the trenches open during the winter until
Feb/March before returning the soil in readiness for planting.
I have only managed one trench, so will have to go back
later this week or next (if the rain stops) for the second trench– but the good
news (which will encourage me to visit) is that there is still lots of cavolo
nero and chard to harvest and the leeks are looking good too.
And there is an almost never-ending supply of Jerusalem artichokes - (not to be confused with globe artichokes) which can be boiled, baked, roast or used for soups or frozen as purée
Cavolo nero - as the temperature drops the flavour will improve through the winter |
And there is an almost never-ending supply of Jerusalem artichokes - (not to be confused with globe artichokes) which can be boiled, baked, roast or used for soups or frozen as purée
John Austin
Hove 11 November 2015
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